Day 36 Kathleen Creek

Distance today 83.1km Ave 16km/hr

Total distance 2695km. Donations $3971.80. Deserts 3/10. Days remaining 103.

It’s 7pm on Sunday the 6 June 2021

What a dramatic end to a day. Banjo got a flat 1 1/2 kms out from camp at Kathleen Creek. We did well to cover the kms here given we got talking and didn’t start until after 11am. We worked hard during the day and I was being a bit cranky at the red sandy corrugations and saying some choice words.

Mother Nature stepped in with the perspective stick and Banjo got a flat front tyre. I think she was being somewhat kind as it was only a short distance respectively to push him here. It’s a popular spot along a river bank with campers on both sides. We approached the first couple to ask for their compressor.

Sarah and Gordon from Wollongong were happy to lend a hand and we got his tyre pumped up. Nigels valve extension concept to the rescue again. I road him round the campgrounds a bit to activate the silicon and all going well he’ll be right as rain in the morning.

We set up camp by the river over twilight and are now all cosy and posting to you fine folk. So far his tyre’s still up so it’s a good sign it’s done the trick. Phew what an epic ending to the day. Thanks Mother Nature. It’s a bit tempting to overlook what matters when I start to get tired and cranky. We’re safe and travelled well and despite it being a taxing day, we both did awesome to almost get here in one piece. 🤣🙏

It’s a stunning spot here with water in the river and I’ve been told there’s lots of green budgies but they’re all roosted for the night so we’ll have to wait til morning for bird o’clock. It’s a stunning clear night with a sky of stars and very chill bill. I even have the gortex jacket over the down and am close to cosy with a buffer from the night air.

It was after 11am when we finally got underway. We were up early and packed up and then a couple who I had spoken to a few times during our stay invited me to have a coffee with them their shout. Couldn’t say no to that offer and we chatted over an hour about their travels. I can’t remember their names bugga but they had some really interesting stories about their stays at cattle stations.

I then met Anneshka and John who have travelled extensively in Australia and overseas in the Middle East, South America and worked for a time in China. They were so interesting and have travelled from the opposite direction across the Great Central highway where I head from Yulara NT to cross the WA border. They were able to give me a heads up on the road conditions and that was good insight about what’s round the corner for the next stage from Marla.

It’s 122km into Marla so we will head off about 8am in the morning all going well and see how we and the road travel. We met Jan this morning, Peters wife at the Pink Roadhouse, and she let us water up with the staff’s tank water for 3 days, so we’re all set for another night if we don’t manage the kms.

The first 20km were so different this morning. Instead of gibber stones it was green pastures of tufty shrubs, like an oasis treat for the gibber birds and dragons. We spotted lots of gibber birds darting amongst the shrubbery. They’re a ground bird and very industrious hopping round in mated pairs. Apparently there’s lots of camels and emus in this section but we’re yet to spot any.

Not 5kms further down the track the landscape changed again interment with gibber road and shrubs and rolling hills on the horizon. It was sunning.

I can’t wait to share this countryside with my partner Dawn and Dylan when we meet in Birdsville at the end of the challenge to do our own travel together for school holidays. The countryside is like nothing we’ve experienced before and I know the time will be extra special shared with people I love. We’ll concentrate more on the Red Centre but the feel of the land, I imagine will share many similarities. Thinking of you both everyday my darlings 😘 Dylan wants me to find a cactus plant for him but it still remains illusive for the time being. I had a great chat with the little man this morning about Gibber birds and dragons and Dawn was googling pictures do he could see what they looked like. Loved our chats mate xx

The second half of the ride changed yet again to red sandy conditions that were very hard going and super corrugated for the most part. It was a bit tricky to pick a smoother line. No wonder there’s camels 🤣 It was beautiful countryside despite being a bit frustrating and slower going.

Banjo was pretty heavy all watered up. The road edge was thicker with sand but less corrugated so we chanced it with the burr bushes to try get some relief rom the bumps. Unfortunately I took him over one too many spiked bushes and one found it’s way into his front tyre. I think we were very fortunate that we were only a km out from Kathleen Creek and it was an easy walk here with plenty of time before the sun went down. Otherwise it would have been a roadside camp and flag down a passing car in the morning so I’m blessed that didn’t eventuate.

Once we settled from that bit of drama and set up camp, I could enjoy what was left of the sunset for the day. It was a stunning reflection across the water that was still and mirrored the coolabahs. I can see why it’s such a popular spot and I’m very happy to have done the distance to enjoy Kathleen Creek for the stop ever. For now it’s dinner o’clock and an early night out of the very cold air. Night and talk soon xxxx

Day 38 Marla

Distance today 61km at 10km/hr

Total distance 2823km Deserts 3/10. Fundraising $4021. Days remaining 101

It’s 917pm on Tuesday the 8 June 2021.

The Oodnadatta Journey has come to an end…… heeeellllloooo Marla!!!!

What a day!!! It’s difficult to know where to start. Today was all about digging deeper.

I knew this challenge was going to stretch me not just physically but also emotionally, mentally, socially and spiritually. I want that and I need it to move into the next stage of life and be the woman I want to be for myself and my family. Today’s ride was the next level of challenge where this space has been confronted for the first time since leaving Brisbane.

The conditions continued as they have for the last couple of days but with a southerly head wind that was cold and fierce. I was beside myself how hard it was. Not even 5km out I realised I needed to redress as I was shivering, wet with sweat and exhausted. I’m susceptible to hypothermia and I didn’t want that to add to the elements. I went into a cattle paddock off the road and layered up with the gortex over the top. At least I wasn’t going to put my safety at risk. However I doubted if I could manage the days kms to Marla and this was distressing.

For some reason travellers weren’t stopping as they have been, to check in on my welfare in the tricky conditions and I noticed how much this affected my energy and positivity. perhaps they were more focused on getting onto Marla I’m not sure, I just know how much I missed it.

I can’t tell you much about the countryside because I was very much within my own head and heart. As much as I value the ‘we’ connection with Banjo, today was more about my experiencing. I found myself genuinely asking if I was up for the challenge. I could see myself going home knowing that I still haven’t confronted some of the demons that are holding me back from being the best version of myself. My mind was dark and doubtful and suffering in silence sucks!!

Then with 42km to go Peter and Jane stopped.

‘Do you need water?’ I replied, ‘No’ and burst into tears. ‘What do you need?’ ‘Just this… to tell someone how hard I’m finding the ride today.’ ‘Hold on we’ll pull over.’

Jane asked, ‘Do you need chocolate?’ I laughed and said, ‘Oh… and I also need chocolate’ 🤣 We talked for ages and shared stories about India and our travels and humanity. It was just what I needed and I told them so and thanked them both with all my heart. I didn’t touch the chocolate during the ride. Instead it was a reminder how powerful human connection and empathy is. I didn’t want to be rescued, I just needed someone to care.

I headed off for the next 42km in a different mindset. ‘Yes’ I want to do this challenge and find the courage to dig deeper. It’s only going to get harder from here on in. I found myself thinking about the Finke Desert Race and how the first day separates the serious contenders for day 2. Today was like my own day 1. Could I dig deeper and find the courage and resilience to work through the rest of the day? Believing in myself has taken a toll over the last years as a result of life events that took the wind out of my sail. This doubt was pulled on today and I found my way through the next hours with a clear picture of what I needed to do.

I remembered Sarah Hammond saying how hard it is out here and Troy encouraging 1 step at a time. Respecting the conditions and taking it 5km at a time is what happened next right to Marlas doorstep. Jane and Peters chocolate tasted pretty dam good.

It’s been a hard day. It’s been a good day. And now it’s time for a rest day to reflect and reset for the road ahead. Talk soon xxxxx

Day 37 Wild Camp 65km East of Marla

Distance today 65km average 12km/hr

Total distance 2762km. Deserts 3/10. Fundraising $4021. Days remaining 102

It’s 710pm on Monday the 7 June 2021

We have the best fire going and very toasty tucked behind the banks of dry waterhole at our wild camp for the night.

We found this spot down a side track to what looks like a drovers camp.

It’s so quiet except for the crackling fire and wind blowing through the ‘beep beep’ tree behind me. I needed some kindling from under their tree and disturbed their roosting for the evening. Oops sorry buddies. They were still busy settling when we first arrived at bird o’clock and gave us a big ‘beep beep’ hello and welcome. It’s nice to have their company for the evening even though they’re well and truly snoring by now.

It was good to stop finally this afternoon at about 430pm. I had thought we may have been able to push through to Marla and surprise the family with a phone call but it wasn’t to be. Sorry my darlings. Despite the good intentions there are elements that I can’t control and that’s always a good lesson in nature.

It was a strong head wind today and the track continues to be very rocky and corrugated. The land is also a long slow ascent which I imagine is the natural shape of the land channeling rains towards Lake Eyre behind us. That all adds up to a slogathon for the 6hrs ish today. After yesterday’s effort getting all too cranky and careless riding over a burr bush, I was focused on staying in as good a head space as I could to make sure both banjo and I travelled safe albeit slow.

It’s very tricky to sustain energy when it’s slow, bumpy going for hours. I’m constantly manoeuvring back and forth across the track to find a path of least resistance. A fella, Vaughan from Brisbane travelling up to Darwin for a cycle race, stopped to have a chat. He was laughing at our track marks saying we probably travel twice the distance by weaving all over the road. He was a really cool guy, retired these days and enjoys travelling to cycling events still when he can. He had a couple of very handsome bikes on top his 4WD. He shared a pink lady apple and we chatted for over an hour. He was easy company and just what I needed to boost the mood. He will share our challenge on his cycling forums and donated $50 to the cause before heading off.

We had our first break at midday along a dry river bed out of the wind. It was cuppa o’clock and I took the time to set up the stove and enjoy the rest.

There was a meter sign showing the depth of water that can run through the floodways after rain. It’s hard to imagine what that must look like given the creeks are mostly sandy dry. It must be a real sight seeing it torrent down the creek up to 2metres at times. No wonder the road conditions change so quickly after just a few inches.

The landscape was quite barren in sections today with areas of red rock expanse. The wind alongs these floodways is incredibly gusty and can blow you sideways without any warning. It’s amazing to experience a taste of how wild it can be. It was time for another break at Olarina Creek.

This was a marked camping area on the WikiCamps app and it was beautiful. We had only done 45km by that stage otherwise I probably would have stopped for the night there.

I was taking some photos when a pair of emus appeared. They were just mooching along unaware we were there.

Oh my goodness what a treat. They’re one of my favourite birds; so handsome with their tail feathers and long legs. I couldn’t believe how close they were. I tried to move a bit closer when they spotted me and headed off crossing the road just ahead and disappearing into the trees.

A few moments later I heard a noise behind me and they had double back to check me out closer. They were so curious and content to hang out together, at a safe distance of course. I kept my squealing on the inside and instead just enjoyed he moment.

What a treat!!! The experience was a wow moment and I have loved checking out the photos and footage tonight. Great to share. “I can see your bottoms!!!!” Very quietly of course 🤣

I’ve just stoked the fire and it’s going strong. I found some descent pieces of wood this afternoon so it’s still burning away cosy. There’s no chance of setting alight any vegetation because there is none 🤣 It’s a peace of mind to enjoy and savour. time for dinner. Talk soon from Marla all going well tomorrow. I can’t wait to talk with my family again and enjoy a couple days break. It’s needed. As much as the countryside on the Oodnadatta Track has been stunning and it has been, it’s been super tricky to cycle and a break is just what we need to reenergise for the next stage. Banjo needs some attention and I’ll enjoy doing that for him to say thank you for keeping us safe and travelling well. He’s one handsome beast and I appreciate him immensely xx

Day 35 Oodnadatta

Distance today 56km at 14km/hr

Total distance 2605km. Deserts 3/10 Donations $3771. Days remaining 104

It’s 7pm on Saturday the 5 June 2021.

I’m sitting outside the Pink roadhouse at Oodnadatta catching up on my posts in a spot where reception seems a bit better than in the campgrounds out back. A puppy god has just visited me for a scratch and it’s a nice moment to share a hello

‘Peter‘ the manager at the roadhouse couldn’t be more helpful. He let me camp for free and give me a coke on the house when I walked in a bit disheveled at 3pm this arv. The perfect pick me up. Since then I have showered and shopped for the next few days to Marla. All good to go again in the morning. I have learnt that my gas cooker doesn’t have gas replacements readily available. Bugga. Peter offered me his portable cooker that uses butane canisters that are in all the corner stores and road houses. I paid him what he paid for it and stocked up on 4 canisters. It’ll be interesting to see how long each one lasts but at least I’m set now yay.

It was awesome to arrive at the roadhouse. It’s the epicentre of the town with the corner store, post office, petrol station and cafe all inclusive. Dispute being a bit quirky it works and definitely looked like Mecca on the road in. Even Banjo thought he looked particularly handsome with a pink backdrop

It ended up being a bit of a hard ride here. The conditions were otherwise good. However gravel had been put on the track over the corrugations and the traffic has pushed it to the shoulder of the road where we travel. This meant that riding was like pushing through deep sand and a hard slog for the first 40km of the ride. The conditions were otherwise good and the scenery was stunning.

The track was super interesting; undulating through rolling hills and floodways with river bed crossings.

This cracked me up at a time I needed a good laugh to tackle the next 5km

I’m going to leave it there as I still want to talk to family again and have some dinner. Talk soon from Marla 👍

Day 33 Duff Creek Bridge

Distance today 70km at 13km/hr

Total distance 2470k. Deserts 3/10 Donations $3771. Days remaining 106.

Note to new readers: I am travelling with my bike who’s name is Banjo. I often refer to ‘we’ meaning Banjo and I. ‘We’ have an amazing support team of family, friends, sponsors and folk we meet each day. But it’s still up to ‘us’ to face the challenge and tackle each day one peddle at a time.

Its 741pm on Thursday the 3 June 2021.

I got a cracker of a fire going to enjoy my cuppa. It sounds awesome crackling with the dry gum wood I found when I first arrived at about 430. It’s warm and cosy and a stunning way to hang out with the evening star and share my post with you.

I set up camp over sunset with the galahs and green budgies squawking their hellos and welcome song to Duff Creek Bridge.

They’re still fluttering above me settling in for the night. The budgies are small and brilliant green and the first I’ve seen. Very pretty and lively. It’s a beautiful camp spot by a sandy creek bed and easy access from the road with the gum trees providing some shelter from the wind. I think they’re Coolabah Trees going by the photos I took of the local flora and fauna back at the Lake Eyre Information Board. Happy girl!!!

Banjos rear pannier was a bit off centre and hitting the tyres during today’s bumps and thumps so I adjusted him tonight and he’s more comfortable to tackle the corrugations and gibber stones again tomorrow. ‘Gibber’ is the name for desert stones which are hues of red and purple depending on the light.

We battled head winds and a rough track today with lots of hills but I was in a much better mind set despite the slow going and the kms were manageable. We even enjoyed a handful of descents later in the day to keep the momentum and happy hormones charged for the last couple of hours.

I got up reasonably early this morning and got talking again to Maree and her husband from Melbourne. Hey ere also camped at Williams Creek. Like many other Victorians travelling in SA, they have to self isolate before heading into NT and were planning their route for the next 14 days. Not a bad way to spend the two weeks. Maree is also in her early 50s and enjoying a change of lifestyle living on the road and working where they can. They have sold their home and said goodbye to domestic life and are excited to approach this next stage of life to the full. Their first plan is to travel their way to Cunnunarra on the WA/NT Border in the Kimberley’s. Their son works on a cattle station near there and her husband has already secured work. Maree’s happy to find what she can in town. We were both very likeminded and shared a passion for keeping life fresh through new challenges. We both enjoyed our connection and hope to see each other again when I’m up that way in Halls Creek.

I headed up to the hotel to water up where the fellas said they had good drinking water and popped in for a coffee and Minties to charge up for the day.

The sign out of town said “See ya and good luck with the roads.” Pretty good well wishes from William Creek and I was set to make the most of the day and approach it with positivity. We were watered up for three days and good to go into the headwind to chip away at the day.

The slow going made it easier to spot cool things and 8km into the ride I saw a pair of wedge tail eagles soaring at height level looking for food. I could see their nest nearby and it was an awesome sight. When I’m open as opposed to in my head, I see so much more and there is so much beauty to see.

Soon after Chris and Wendy came past and stopped their troopie for a chat. They were sat behind me at dinner last night and we spent a time talking and picked up the conversation again today out on the road. They’re from Melbourne and also isolating with one week to go. Beautiful people; very genuine and generous with their encouragement. They’re keen to now follow our challenge and support the cause online. Lovely to meet you ladies and safe travels to you both xx

We passed a sign saying “eggs in 1km” and came across a red box with an honour system and eggs to sell. I thought this may be a better option to keep the protein up for this little vegetarian. However other travellers had got in first and the box was empty so no eggs today but fuel for thought if I see them for sale down the track.

The countryside was a stunning contrast of colour with blue skies and open plains of red sand and low lying shrubs. The horizon was broken with distant rolling ranges and fluffy clouds softened the harsh corrugations. It all made the track just a bit more welcoming in the tricky conditions.

I can feel myself starting to warm to the Oodnadatta Track and appreciate its treasures. There is a variety of flowering flora amongst the sandhill cane grasses. It’s fun to try spot the more common varieties like saltbush, blue bush, samphire, frankenia and poached egg daisies. I stopped and took a photo of swainsona which has an intricate flower of purples that are precious.

The sky clouded over for a time during the day then cleared for the last couple of hours. The burst of afternoon sun lit up the grasses that glowed to let me know the days kms were nearly done.

At 70km, Duff Creek Bridge was the perfect option to camp for the night. It’s been a really good day with a different mindset and I’m pretty chuffed that I made the effort to get the most out of it. It has such an impact on the energy levels and a good heads up that I’ll get out of the day what I put into it. Time for dinner and beddy byes. It’s a big sky night this evening and it’s seems a time since we saw our last. The Milky Way is bold and brash and like a blanky of all good things to wrap myself up safe and sound. A positive approach to the day has a lasting quality that I can still feel. Despite being alone I never feel lonely and I appreciate the deep connection and sense of belonging that I have in the natural world. Sweet dreams to you too. Talk soon xx

Day 34 Algebuckina Bridge

Distance today 75.1km at 19km/hr

Total distance 2549km. Deserts 3/10 Donations $3771. Days remaining 105

Note to new readers: I am travelling with my bike who’s name is Banjo. I often refer to ‘we’ meaning Banjo and I. ‘We’ have an amazing support team of family, friends, sponsors and folk we meet each day. But it’s still up to ‘us’ to face the challenge and tackle each day one peddle at a time.

It’s 627pm on Friday the 4 June 2021.

It right on fire o’clock at Algebuckina Bridge.

I’ve taken to collecting fire wood when I first arrive at camp as a way to reset the brain and body after the days ride and settle in for the night. Today was particularly delish wondering with the birds and flowers along Neales River. It’s more a waterhole haven with rock pools and reeds and it was fun to rock hop and chill out by the waters edge.

The bridge is a point of interest and popular stopover along the Oodnadatta Track. It’s a grand gesture of the old Ghan railway spanning 100m with cast iron reds against the blue sky and salt pans – a great sight as we climbed up over a crest and

descended into the river plateau. There’s a walkway up to the bridge to enjoy the perspective and we cut check we it out the view before hunting and gathering firewood 🤣

We got up early this morning and enjoyed the daybreak and sunrise through the Coolabahs. The sky was clear and it was a beautiful time of day to take it all in over breakfast.

There were dingos howling further up the creek bed which was super cool and bizarre in daylight. Certainly a lot more comfortable than the last encounter at Cuppa Creek. It was about 9am when we finally got underway.

The road was much of the same bumpy riding until we came across a section being graded by workmen. We stopped and talked to ‘Kenny’ an aboriginal worker with the two man crew. He was genuine and great to chat with about the area. Apparently they’ve had 6inches of rain over the last months. This is their usual annual rainfall and the landscape is thriving with lots of fresh waterholes. The season is showing off with the grasses and shrubs in flower and a real treat for the bird life that’s also in numbers for this time of year. He spoke about green budgies and bush turkeys. The waterways are apparently full of shrimps and frogs that lays dormant for years waiting for the right conditions for the eggs to hatch. Kenny loves his work as he gets paid to camp out for days and enjoy the land. His love for nature was contagious and I loved listening to his passion and joy. I thanked him for his hard work maintaining the track and set off again to savour the next 10km of graded bliss 🤣

It felt like an airstrip compared to what we’ve been travelling on and with a tail wind we smashed out the rest of the kms averaging 19km/hr. We took the time to enjoy a few breaks and appreciate the scenery.

We were stopped by ‘Tim’ travelling on his motorcycle up to Alice Springs for the annual Finke Desert Race. It’s a two day motorcycle race from Alice Springs to Finke and back again on day two. They follow the Old Ghan Track. Apparently lots of bikers travel to Alice this time of year to support the event. This is Tim’s first year and he’s super excited. He was also very enthusiastic about our challenge and full of respect for what we’re taking on. He’s keen to follow our adventure and share it on his socials. Thanks Mate, safe travelaas to Alice.

After setting up camp I went for a wonder back along the river. The afternoon light was stunning against the bridge and rocky hills. We arrived a bit earlier this afternoon with better riding conditions and I loved having the time to enjoy the camp more. Sunset was beautiful and the evening star rose above the twilight colours on the horizon.

The bridge is creaking tonight as it cools from the day, and it’s a reminder how grand the Old Ghan must have been in its day. The railway ruins are a dominant feature along the track and it would be good to understand a bit more about its heritage. We will see what we can find out in Oodnadatta. It’s about 56km into town tomorrow so I hope to arrive early to do some have tos and chill a bit.

That’s probably me for tonight. I’ll aim for an early start tomorrow to get into town by lunchtime all going well. The bridge is silhouetted by a big sky night again. With no moon, it seems every star has its place to shine. It nice to see ourself as a star with a reason to shine when we’re open to living and growing everyday. Time for dinner. Talk soon xxx

Day 32 William Creek

Distance today 72km at 10km/hr

Total distance 2398km. Deserts 3/10 Donations $3654.80. Days remaining 107.

Note to new readers: I am travelling with my bike who’s name is Banjo. I often refer to ‘we’ meaning Banjo and I. ‘We’ have an amazing support team of family, friends, sponsors and folk we meet each day. But it’s still up to ‘us’ to face the challenge and tackle each day one peddle at a time.

It’s 739pm on Wednesday the 2 June 2021.

I’m at the William Creek Hotel eating my first pub meal because I’m huuuuungreeeey!!!!. The oats and seeds were just not going to cut it tonight. I need a hot meal and am saddling up to a burger and chips and salt and tomato sauce. Ooooo happy girl

Today has been the hardest by far. 7 hours ride with corrugated road conditions and a headwind that was super chilly and challenging. With 30km to go it was literally breaking the remaining kms down to 5km at a time with a minty reward and water break in between. I was pretty exhausted at this stage and tried hydrolite and lots of water and snacks but I think I just didn’t have enough fuel on board to work so hard for so long. Hence the indulge tonight!!! Time to calorie up for the next 3 days to Oodnadatta.

However the day started off awesome. I popped into the cafe to buy some the date treats for the day and met some awesome people with the same idea!!! I receive $50 donations each from Angela from Adelaide and Ali From Melbourne

Barb the manager offers a wonderful stay at Coward springs and serves up a variety of pretty delish date treats for her guests

I was very happy to arrive at 430pm this arv.

William Creek has Telstra service so I’ve already had my fix of phone calls with the family that fuels the heart and helps me reset. I was able to share the sunset with them.

The shower was particularly delish getting some hot water onto the shoulders and back and now I’m squeaky clean and feeling human again. Time to finish dinner before they take my plate away and I have to bite the waiters arm off. Talk soon xxx

Day 30 Gregory Creek

Distance today 73km 17km/hr.

Total distance 2261km. Deserts 3/10 Donations $3504.80. Days remaining 109.

Note to new readers: I am travelling with my bike who’s name is Banjo. I often refer to ‘we’ meaning Banjo and I. ‘We’ have an amazing support team of family, friends, sponsors and folk we meet each day. But it’s still up to ‘us’ to face the challenge and tackle each day one peddle at a time.

It’s 716pm on Monday the 31 May 2021.

We have started on the Oodnadatta Track, 613km. According to our Hema guide, the Oodnadatta Track gently undulates from Marree to Marla on the Stuart Highway. That’s us for the next 9 days all going well. Apparently it’s known as one of the most scenic and interesting rides in Australia.

Day one has been all of that and more. The scenery is notably different from the Birdsville Track. We’re not far from Lake Eyre to the north and there are many smaller lakes and salt pans dotted through this part of the track. The track follows the route of the Old Ghan railway line and several ruin sites along the way. Today the old railway line travelled parallel to the track and tonight were camped right next to a bridge. Its cool to appreciate that heritage and the red rusted remains add a stark contrast to the scenery.

It was later o’clock when we got started after meeting some truly amazing people who were also packing up camp at the Marree hotel. Claudia and Lotharder are from Saarbruecken in Germany and celebrating a change of lifestyle by travelling around Australia. I immediately felt a deep connection with them and we shared beautiful conversation in our brief meeting. They both appreciate a lifestyle that nurtures mental health and know the value of making this conscious choice and commitment. They also set off on the track today and we may even cross paths again in WA. I also met Tristan and Andrew from Melbourne who are travelling towards Darwin. The 5 of us clicked and the quality conversation continued up at the roadhouse over breakfast before we got into our respective days. It’s rare to meet such different people who share a similar outlook of positivity and appreciation for human growth through new experiences hat challenge the comfort zone. What a great way to start the day and I truly hope to cross paths with these folk again.

We said goodbye to Marree after 10am. The sign on the way out of town warned ‘remote areas ahead.’ Oooo adventure!!!!

And we were underway!!!! Banjo was looking particularly handsome with his Mongolian scarf tied to his flag. The blue scarf represents safe travels. I got it when I did a cycle tour through Mongolia back in 2012. I asked mum to pack it in the Marree postal pack and it’s exactly where it needs to be back on the track and helping to keep us safe.

The countryside is immediately beautiful with areas of salt pans and wide expanse. We stopped to check out the salty clumps by the roadside. What I thought would be hard and crusty was actually soft deep clay just under the salt. Banjo’s front tyre had a nose dive when I tried to push him through a thicker section. He was a dirty boy until he flicked the mud off and up the back of my pants when we got going again. Thanks mate!!!I’m glad we didn’t hit it while riding. When he falls, it’s like picking up a motorcycle. He’s heavy and awkward with the panniers and water and much more graceful when he’s cruising.

The sand hills have been replaced with rolling hills that offer a taste of the flinders rangers to the south. The low lying shrubs are much like what we’ve seen so we have to still keep a keen eye out for the dreaded burr bush. It’s quite prolific at Gregory Creek where we’re camped for the night so we didn’t venture too far from the track. We found a spot tucked behind some bushes for protection from the wind. The grounds quite sandy so should make a cosy bed later.

Soon after we arrived a couple pulled up to also camp here for the night. They’re fun and super interesting. We talked until twilight about each other’s travels and stories long the way. Julie and Arthur are from France and on working visas. They arrived before COVID and what was a 6monrh trip is now over 2 years and continuing. They have worked up on cattle stations in the Kimberly’s and had some great stories to share. They drive a decked out 1995 Mitsubishi 4WD and its a beast of a car, so cool.

It’s clear they love it as much as they love Australia and particularly the outback life. What a great way to finish the day and share sunset checking out the bridge over the creek. A few kms out they noticed our tyre tracks weaving across the roadway and thought ‘surely that can’t be a bicycle.’ The road is quite corrugated in parts and banjo and I spent most of the day darting across to the smoother part of the track. Anyone following our tracks would be a bit confused. They were just impressed by our creative manoeuvring. Whatever it takes!!!!

Time for dinner and beddy byes. A chill has crept up and it’ll be nice to tuck myself into bed soon. Great day!! Talk soon xxxxx

Day 31 Coward Springs

Distance Today 65km at 13km/hr ave

Total distance 2322km. Deserts 3/10 Donations $3150/$10,000. Days remaining 108.

Note to new readers: I am travelling with my bike who’s name is Banjo. I often refer to ‘we’ meaning Banjo and I. ‘We’ have an amazing support team of family, friends, sponsors and folk we meet each day. But it’s still up to ‘us’ to face the challenge and tackle each day one peddle at a time.

It’s 838pm on Tuesday the 1 June 2021.

Today begin with a catch up at camp with Julie and Arthur again and the conversation continued easily from last night. They’re such a fun couple and we hope to see each other again down the track. I have their euro as a keepsake meanwhile, and they’re keen to follow the challenge online.

I waved goodbye to Julie and Arthur and got underway at about 10am. About 12km into the day, I caught the first glimpse of Lake Eyre South.

I hadn’t checked the map for landmarks and this was a stunning surprise. A further 7km along was a lookout and information centre, the perfect place for our first break. What a fabulous view. The lookout was quiet and I got to take in all in without the crowds. The information was super interesting.

Apparently the Lake Eyre basin sits at the southern rim of the Great Artesian Basin. It’s the worlds largest and deepest underground reservoir of water that formed about 120 million years ago when Australia broke away from Antartica. The sea flooded underground and erosion caused the water to pool in the sinking central areas up to 3000m.

The artesian basin is fed by rainfall on the western side of the great dividing range in Queensland. This rain emerges as artesian springs in South Australia some 2 million years later. The ancient water is tapped by drilling a hole to the water level where pressures force the water to flow out at up to 100 degrees. We have seen signs of these bore water ‘taps’ since Birdsville.

At the heart of the lake eyre basin is Lake Eyre where rivers like the Cooper flow towards. Every 2-3 years the wet season channels enough water to make Lake Eyre a waterway and epicentre for wildlife. The relationship between the Great Artesian Basin water and the Lake Eyre surface water is still largely unknown. I like that such a geological phenomenon till remains a natural wonder.

Back on the road, I spotted dingo tracks by the road so I’m not sure how effective the ‘dog fence’ is that runs through this area 🤣

This pat of the track is a national park that attracts a large volume of travellers. It’s apparent by the track conditions that are very corrugated. I spent the next hours unsuccessfully trying to pick the least bumpy path. From what I’ve been told there’s another 10 or so kms of these conditions but tomorrow’s another day.

I welcomed being stoped by Shirley and her husband travelling from Sydney. Shirley was keen to know more about our challenge and donated $50 to help our cause. 🙏

After 65km I was more than ready to call it a day and arrived at Coward Springs where there’s a bush style campgrounds. They let me pitch my tent for the night for free and top up on water. Apparently they sell coffee and date slice from 8-11am so I may need to indulge before heading off tomorrow.

I’ve been able to savour some of the campground treats starting with a soak in the natural spa. Oh how delish and the perfect remedy for the shoulders and back after a bumpy ride in the saddle.

They also have a museum in one of the original buildings still standing and a wetlands walk. I checked these later in the afternoon and over sunset o’clock.

In 1887 a bore was dug at Cowards Springs as an important stop along the old Ghan. The bore has a controlled flow that has formed a localised wetlands and permanent water source for wildlife particularly during periods of drought.

The aboriginal nations of lake eyre have accessed the natural springs for over 20,000 years. This knowledge was shared with early pioneers to establish pastoral and railway industries and local communities that grew like Marree and Marla at each end of this track. There was a beautiful quote in the museum from a local elder,

“Respect the water, respect the stories, respect the land. It’s our mother and father too. It provides for us and important to protect and pass onto our children. It’s our shared responsibility.”

It’s bug o’clock big time so I might end it there and have some dinner before bed. Night and talk soon xx

Day 28 Marree

Distance today 55km at 22km/hr

Its 7pm on Saturday the 29 May 2021- my daddy’s birthday. I got to sing happy birthday to the pops with the family and that makes it a good day indeedy.

I woke this morning before sunrise and enjoyed a cuppa while I slowly packed up and got ready to tackle the day early into Marree. Very excited!!!! A wind had blown up early and I wasn’t sure at that stage which way it was blowing.

On the way out I met Roger and Meredith from Adelaide. Meredith was enjoying an early morning spa, with her beanie on so funny.

I had met these folk in Birdsville and it was great to hear how their Simpson desert crossing had gone. Their boy is a velodrome cyclist competing in the Tokyo Olympics in July, so they’re super interested in cycling and our challenge. They’re travelling with other couples and one of the fellas, Mark from Adelaide donated $20. Thanks Mark!!

That wind was right up our tail yehaaa so it was an awesome ride and so appreciated. With the tail wind we were able to smash out lots of kms before wee wee break called amongst the trees and beep beeps.

It wasn’t long and Marree was on the horizon.

We headed straight to the pub and picked up our postal pack that Wendy collected Friday. I now have my food and other essentials I needed. You’ll be happy to know I have a lip balm so no more bum cream around the mouth 🤣

Gail and Roger are camped next door to me. They’re on a working holiday and currently helping out at the pub. Roger welcomed me with 2x poppers and a coffee and Gail donated $10. The generosity of folk is a beautiful thing and so special to be on the receiving end. It really makes such a difference to feel connected and supported.

I managed to enjoy a sit with Pam and Owen and their puppies Buttons, Meesha and EB. They shouted me a coke and we chatted about travels and the unique challenges we all face to keep good mental health that works. We’re all so different. What’s ‘normal’ is an easy way to social regulate our differences. It causes emotional harm to those who don’t fit the social mould. We are better than that with a capacity for compassion to alleviate suffering that’s often in silence and on antidepressants.

The folk at the pub are so gracious and can’t help enough. They offered a place I could wash and service Banjo and I’ve been able to use the pub washing machine and dryer to sort out the smelly gear. It’s even had fabric softener oh my!!!!! I popped down to the local store and was able to top up on some supplies and food for dinner and breaky. But most of all I was able to call my family and wish my dad a happy birthday. They were having coffee and cake at our local haunt and we could all sing him happy birthday when his cake arrived with a candle. Looooove my family and having service to be able to hear their voices, fills my heart with all the love we share 😘 the best energiser ever!!!!

So now I’m trying to upload my posts with the media and it’s taking a time. So I’ll end off my post there and finish off my have tos before enjoying dinner. Great to be in Marree. Talk soon xx